Skip to main content

Aquatic Plant Encyclopedia

Encyclopedia of popular aquatic plants with care guides, traits, and aquascaping tips.

Showing 11 of 127 species

Cryptocoryne × willisii

Cryptocoryne × willisii

Beginner

A small Sri Lankan Cryptocoryne considered a natural hybrid complex. Plain mid-green, narrow leaves resemble C. parva but it is larger and more vigorous, spreading by runners into low fore- to midground stands.

CryptocoryneSmallFore- to midground
Cryptocoryne affinis

Cryptocoryne affinis

Cryptocoryne affinis

Beginner

A Malay Peninsula Cryptocoryne with silky dark green leaves, a pale midrib and a wine-red to purple underside. It grows in low light without CO2 and spreads by underground runners into dense stands.

CryptocoryneRosette plantLow-tech

Cryptocoryne albida

Cryptocoryne albida

Beginner

A Cryptocoryne with narrow lanceolate leaves and gently wavy margins. Both a green form and a 'Brown' form with red-brown, darkly feather-marked leaves are traded. It tolerates low light and combines easily with other plants.

CryptocoryneNarrow leavesRosette plant

Cryptocoryne beckettii

Cryptocoryne beckettii

Beginner

A Sri Lankan Cryptocoryne with pointed olive-brown to green leaves and purplish undersides. Grown for over 60 years, it adapts to soft or hard water and forms bushy stands by runners.

CryptocoryneBeginnerMidground
Cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae

Cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae

Cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae

Beginner

A Cryptocoryne with long, strap-like, strongly hammered leaves that can exceed 50 cm, used as a background thicket. Native to hard limestone waters, it shows twisted leaves when short of calcium.

CryptocoryneBackgroundHard water
Cryptocoryne parva

Cryptocoryne parva

Cryptocoryne parva

Intermediate

The smallest Cryptocoryne species. Used as a foreground plant, growing very slowly. Once established it is hardy and easy to maintain. Grows without CO2, but needs more light than other Cryptocoryne species.

CryptocoryneSmallForeground

Cryptocoryne pontederiifolia

Cryptocoryne pontederiifolia

Beginner

A fairly large Sumatran Cryptocoryne with broad, heart-shaped leaves, often brownish to faintly violet beneath and slightly hammered. It rarely suffers crypt melt and can stand in for Anubias.

CryptocoryneBroad leavesMid- to background
Cryptocoryne undulata

Cryptocoryne undulata

Cryptocoryne undulata

Beginner

A Sri Lankan Cryptocoryne with brown, slightly wavy and sometimes marbled leaves. It grows without fertiliser in low light, and the more light and nutrients it gets, the lower and denser it becomes. A broad-leaved triploid form is also traded.

CryptocoryneSri LankaMidground
Cryptocoryne usteriana

Cryptocoryne usteriana

Cryptocoryne usteriana

Beginner

A large Cryptocoryne from Guimaras in the Philippines. Its embossed leaves, 3–5 cm wide, grow beyond 50 cm and turn wine-red beneath under good light and fertilisation. It likes hard water and is not eaten by fish.

CryptocoryneLargeBackground
🌿

Cryptocoryne walkeri 'Lutea'

Cryptocoryne walkeri 'Lutea'

Beginner

A form of the Sri Lankan Cryptocoryne walkeri, once treated as the species C. lutea. Its 8–12 cm leaves have finely wavy margins on the lower half. Both purple-red and green-brown plants are sold under the name.

CryptocoryneSri LankaMidground

Cryptocoryne Wendtii

Cryptocoryne wendtii

Beginner

A hardy Cryptocoryne from Sri Lanka. Calm brown to green tones ideal for midground placement.

CryptocoryneMidgroundHardy

Aquatic Plant FAQ

How much do aquatic plants cost?
Common Rotala and Anubias cost 300-1,000 yen, Bucephalandra 1,000-5,000 yen, and rare wild-collected specimens 5,000-20,000+ yen depending on species.
Can beginners grow aquatic plants?
Anubias Nana and Java Moss require no CO2 injection and grow in low light, making them ideal for beginners. Start with hardy shade-loving plants.
What equipment is needed for aquatic plants?
A tank, LED light, filter, and aqua soil are the basics. For advanced layouts, CO2 injection and high-performance lighting significantly improve growth and coloration.
What should I check when buying aquatic plants?
Ensure leaves are green and healthy, not melting or dying, and free of snails or pests. Tissue-cultured cups are pest-free and reliable.
Why do aquatic plants die?
Insufficient light, CO2, or nutrients are the main causes. Each species has different requirements, so matching the environment to your specific plants is essential.